Biriyani: More Than Just Rice and Meat
Biryani has become an everlasting symbol of the multicultural world we live in. Originating in Iran, biryani traces its linguistic roots to birinj, Persian for rice, as well as birian, Persian for ‘fried before cooking’.
The most widely accepted origin story of biryani places its creation in the royal kitchens of the Mughals, who ruled India from the 15th to the 18th century. The story goes that Queen Mumtaz, for whom incidentally the Taj Mahal was commissioned, had visited the barracks and wanted to help the soldiers who looked malnourished. Thus, the Queen asked the chefs to make a dish that consisted of both rice and meat to provide a balanced meal for the troops to fuel them into battle.
There are, of course, other historical explanations in including that the Mughals wanted to incorporate elements of their cooking into Indian cuisine. But whatever its origin, the dish remains as delicious as it is rich in history and cultural significance.
The key to biryani lies in its simplicity; at its core, it can be described as a humble rice dish that brings together your choice of protein and a blend of spices. Yet, biryani is often spoken of with deep reverence, not just as food, but as an emotion, a language, a form of love so sacred that altering its recipe in any way is considered the highest form of sacrilege. However, with so many variations, there is no single true version of biryani - everyone has their own cherished take on this beloved dish.
One of the most famous variations of the dish is Hyderabadi biryani. It combines elements of Persian and Mughlai cuisines with the addition of local Telugu elements. There are two styles of Hyderabadi biryani: raw and cooked. With raw biryani, the meat is marinated with spices and yogurt and then layered with slightly cooked rice in a handi, a type of heavy-bottomed pot. The pot is then sealed tightly with dough to trap the steam cooked slowly over a low flame until the meat is tender. This method is time-consuming but is said to produce a biryani with a more intense flavour and aroma.
In the cooked biryani method, the meat and rice are cooked separately before being layered in the pot. The pot is then sealed, and the biryani is cooked until the flavours meld together. Hyderabadi biryani distinguishes itself is in its blending of Mughlai and Telugu cuisines. The use of ingredients such as basmati rice, meat (typically goat meat or chicken) and a blend of spices including cloves, cinnamon, ginger and garlic, along with saffron-infused milk, lends Hyderabadi biryani its unique character. Another key element of Hyderabadi biryani is the use of fried onions, leading to a sweet and caramelised flavour. Additionally, fresh herbs like mint and coriander are used as garnish, pleasantly contrasting with the rich and spicy biryani. Hyderabadi biryani is traditionally served with mirchi ka salan, a spicy curry of green chillies, and raita, a cooling yogurt-based side dish.
Malabar biryani, also known as Kerala biryani, hails from the Malabar region, located along the south-western coast of India. Malabar biryani is set apart by its own choice of rice, unique spices and cooking techniques. Unlike the long-grain basmati rice typically used in biryanis, Malabar biryani has a special kind of short-grain rice known as kaima or jeerakasala. The preparation of this biryani involves cooking the meat and rice separately before layering them together. The meat, usually chicken, mutton, beef or fish, is marinated in a spice blend of garlic, ginger, green chilies and a mix of powdered spices like turmeric, coriander, and garam masala. It's then slow cooked to infuse the flavours deeply into the meat.
The rice is cooked with a vast number of spices including bay leaves, cinnamon, cloves and cardamom, which each help to impart a delicate aroma to the grains. The layering process alternates rice and meat, each generously sprinkled with fried onions, raisins, cashews and sometimes even boiled eggs. One of the defining characteristics of Malabar Biryani is its generous use of ghee (clarified butter). The cooking process also often involves a dash of rose or kewra water, enhancing the biryani's fragrance. The pot is then sealed, traditionally with a dough made of flour and water and placed over a low flame to cook in its own steam. Malabar Biryani is typically served with a variety of accompaniments, including pickles, raita, poppadom and a coconut chutney.
Sindhi biryani is a variant of biryani that originated from the Sindh province of Pakistan, home to the Sindhi community. Sindhi Biryani sets itself apart from other biryanis with its potent and spicy flavour profile, achieved by using lots of green chilies, spices and souring agents. The preparation of Sindhi Biryani typically involves marinating the meat, usually mutton or chicken, in a mixture of yogurt and a spice blend of turmeric, red chili powder, coriander, and garam masala. A distinguishing ingredient in Sindhi biryani is the use of aloo bukhara (dried plums), which impart a tangy flavour. The marinated meat is then cooked with a generous amount of finely chopped onions and tomatoes until it is tender and juicy. Separately, basmati rice is boiled with a bouquet of whole spices such as bay leaves, cloves, cardamom and star anise, imparting a subtle fragrance in the rice.
Layering is an essential part of Sindhi biryani preparation. Alternating layers of the cooked meat and partially boiled rice are arranged in a pot, with each layer receiving a scattering of fried onions, fresh mint, and coriander leaves. This is then sealed and cooked on dum (low heat) until the flavours meld together. Another unique aspect of Sindhi biryani is the garnish. It's often garnished with thinly sliced fried potatoes, boiled eggs and a squeeze of fresh lemon, adding yet another layer of texture and flavour to the dish. Sindhi biryani is typically served with a side of raita or a simple salad of sliced onions and tomatoes.
There are also international versions of biryani including in Myanmar. Biryani is known in Burmese as danpauk or danbauk which comes from the Persian dum pukht, referring to a slow oven cooking technique. The Kapampangan cuisine in the Philippines features a dish called nasing biringyi, a chicken and saffron rice dish. Another Filipino variation is known as bringhe, amalgamating elements of Spanish Paella. These various versions of biryani demonstrate how the dish has evolved far beyond its original conception as an effective way of feeding an army, becoming a cross-cultural phenomenon. It is no longer just a simple dish, but a symbol of the rich diasporic tapestry of shared experiences and flavours that shape our identities across the world.
Edited by Matthew Pellow, Food and Drink Editor
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