Gucci and The Paradox of Women in the Fashion Industry
Fashion is an art form that has one of the longest and wide-reaching histories. It manifests artistic pursuits both with the clothes it creates, as well as the media it inspires. When the biographical crime drama House of Gucci aired, it was easy to get absorbed in the amazing costumes, the BAFTA-nominated acting of Lady Gaga, and the spectacle of Italian 'Royalty'. An instant classic. However, such glamorous smoke and mirrors should not overshadow what that particular film represents: the twisted gender dynamics in the fashion industry.
From a perspective that admittedly may rely on generalisations, women are undoubtedly at the heart of the fashion industry. Yet, sadly, that does not necessarily translate into leadership positions. There is undoubtedly a necessary conversation to be had around this paradox. We, the customers, deserve transparency and honesty about gender equality within modern luxury brands.
The Gucci family, as the box office hit demonstrated, have long overlooked women. Guccio Gucci’s daughter, Grimalda, was excluded from his inheritance, despite having worked for years in the family business and having helped to save the brand from bankruptcy in 1924. Her efforts to contest the will led to a prolonged legal dispute against her two brothers, highlighting the restrictive practices many companies have systematically imposed on women. Such policies effectively sidelined women, barring them from leadership roles and reinforcing a pervasive glass ceiling in the business world.
One could argue that to date, the fashion industry still holds a conflicted relationship with women in power. For example, Kering, a French multinational holding company specialising in luxury goods, has expressed its strong commitment to sustainability and gender equity. Yet, among Gucci, Balenciaga, Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen and Bottega Veneta - Kering’s top five brands - only Saint Laurent has a female CEO. Likewise, the top six brands directed by Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH) are designed by men, with the sole exception of Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior. One only has to listen to Tory Burch’s frustration, expressed in her commencement speech at the Parsons School of Design, at being introduced as a “Female CEO”, rather than as simply a CEO, in order to understand the persistent challenges that can be faced by women in the fashion industry.
Challenges that are, hopefully, diminishing.
There have admittedly been great steps towards bridging the gender gap. In 2013, Gucci, alongside Beyoncé and Salma Hayek, launched the Chime for Change campaign. Amongst others, they were primarily supported by the Kering Foundation. A sign these disparities have long been on the radar of global fashion conglomerates. Their aim was to tackle gender inequality by supporting projects and organisations related to women’s welfare, such as Equality Now and the Global Fund for Women. Up to this point, Chime for Change has raised nearly 21.5 million USD in support of more than 500 projects across the globe, with 185 non-profit partners.
In a similar way, LVMH, another titan of industry, launched Women@Dior, a mentorship program focused on female empowerment, providing professional development, support, and tools to foster leadership skills and confidence to women worldwide. Today, this program has supported over 2,000 young women from all walks of life. The culmination of the program is the "Dream for Change" project, aimed at fostering empowerment among young women.
Those erring on the more cynical side could rightfully argue this is merely a calculated tactic in which brands ensure consumers stay interested in purchasing goods. After all, it is no secret that nowadays people are more than willing to hold brands accountable for their internal practices. Especially younger consumers. Issues such as a lack of transparency, ethical sourcing and gender equality will not be left unpunished. The brands, acknowledging that this shift of mindsets can make or break them, are eager to comply with the new standards. It is therefore safe to assume that the industry is now standing at a critical juncture: it can either keep up the good work and move towards a more inclusive, equitable environment or relapse and perpetuate a legacy of exclusion.
Consumers are using their purchasing power to promote ethically transparent brands and boycott the ones that fail to adhere to the rules. On some levels at least, brands have adapted to incorporate sustainable and moral practices. Prominent high-street brand H&M, for example, has a ‘Conscious Collection’ focused on recycled fabrics. Whilst Urban Outfitters’ ‘Urban Renewal’ scheme champions repurposed, remade, and one-of-a-kind vintage goods. Emulation of these practices, centred around gender equity, needs to be established within corporate leadership.
Thus, the question presents itself: How can the fashion industry prevent history from repeating itself and instead ensure that stories like Grimalda Gucci’s will remain in the past?
The answer requires a nuanced and subjective approach. For example, luxury brands could consider ways to prioritise gender diversity not only in designer teams but also in key board positions. Perhaps possibilities could be found by focusing more actively on initiatives such as the aforementioned mentorship programs, charitable foundations and initiatives. It is clear that establishing a fruitful dialogue with the consumers is essential in order to succeed. Ultimately, brands respond to customer demand - continued social pressure is crucial in changing the hierarchies of leadership.
It’s logical that the financial success of luxury brands is now dependent on their ability to adapt to modern standards of gender equity and transparency. There is an unquestionably long way to go to achieve full gender equality. Continued social pressure is essential. It is only right that the talents and expertise of women in the industry are rightfully acknowledged and represented.
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Written by Mariza Michailidou
Edited by Daisy Packwood, Fashion Editor
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