John Galliano Leaving Maison Margiela: A Retrospective on His Impact On The Fashion Industry
From his graduate Les Incroyables collection in 1984, to his last collection with Maison Margiela in 2024, Artisanal, John Galliano has cemented himself as one of the world's greatest designers. Galliano’s first collection, inspired by the French Revolution, channeled the spirit of radical change and defiance through fashion, establishing his identity as a designer who transforms dense social history into narrative-rich couture. His latest collection, inspired by the magic of fashion and the shadowy underbelly of late 19th-century Paris, extends this vision, intertwining revolutionary ideals with the decadent allure of the city’s haunted past to create a poetic dialogue between rebellion and enchantment. Galliano draws inspiration from theatre, the feminine form, and the fashion of the past. From Givenchy to Dior and finally to Maison Margiela, John Galliano has cemented himself as a creative powerhouse within the fashion industry.
Galliano was appointed to head Givenchy in 1995, a first for any British designer. Having had such success with his graduate collection he decided to re-interpret his original inspiration of the French Revolution for his first couture collection the following year. The collection was an ode to the ‘Les Merveilleuses’ women - a group of french aristocrats notorious for their lavish gowns. The introduction of silk slips and lingerie mimicked the trends within aristocracy of the time, conveying a woman’s elegance, softness and, most importantly, charm. Extravagant headpieces and big hoop skirts reflect the upper class and how their attire differs drastically from the lower class thus, alluding to the divide which started the French Revolution. Headpieces such as an ancient camera and even a chandelier, worn by a youthful Kate Moss. The highlights of the collection included materials such as leopard print, black fur and silk. Each gown paid striking homage to 18th-century elegance, crafted from luxurious silks and satins in soft shades of silver and ivory. Corseted bodices, accented with delicate ruffled trim, gave way to voluminous skirts that flowed in dramatic, sculptural folds. The fabric’s subtle sheen caught the light, creating an ethereal effect, whilst in some looks lavender hair pieces add a whimsical, theatrical touch to the look.
Following on from this illustrious start to his career, Galliano became creative director of Dior, taking inspiration from the movie The Matrix where, in 1999, his designs heavily relied on leather and the futuristic aspects. In an interview for Vogue Galliano said, “The dresses are evil, evil. But you have to have the Romantic—they die for that, my ladies”. Romance that remained at the forefront of his collections. Once again he took inspiration from his love of costume and history and drew ingenuity from Marie Antoinette for his collection in 2000, featuring dresses that had corset bodices, exaggerated puff sleeves, and a voluminous, layered skirt constructed from a hoop cage, adorned with lace, ribbons, and bows. Achieving looks that transported the viewer through time with the use of the pale almost white painted visage, as well as the an extravagant, oversized wig that was embellished with delicate feathers.
In 2004, Galliano drew inspiration from ancient Egypt, celebrating the opulence and extravagance with which the Egyptians honoured their Gods and pharaohs. An example of this is a design that took inspiration from Nefertiti, the queen who played a pivotal role in Egypt's shift from polytheism to the worship of the sun god, Aton. This theme of opulence and divine power resonated with this design. The gown featured a structured, form-fitting bodice with angular, sculptural details, and a voluminous skirt adorned with gold, bronze, and intricate beadwork. A dramatic collar, reminiscent of ancient Egyptian neck-pieces, the model wore a nefertiti-like crown and beard, completed with regal, opulent makeup, blending historical inspiration with Galliano's avant-garde couture style. Here, in the House of Dior, Galliano served as creative director from 1997 until 2011, his work was recognised due to his immense cultural impact and creative power. His collections were labelled as theatrical and monumental as he drew inspiration from history, pop culture and icons
In 2014 Maison Margiela appointed him as creative director, debuting a runway collection that contrasted his previous collections by exploring a more minimal and tailored look. An example of this is a black blazer that has been unbuttoned to show a mesh crop top that emulates a brassier. This was paired with black low waisted tailored trousers. The design was embellished with a pair of half black and white block heels. Another look conveys the notion of ‘the undressed’. This design combines the idea of a classic corporate look with a deconstructed blazer, paired with a beige mini skirt that is adorned with black tassels, black and white striped tights which complemented the black and white striped block heels. The design is enriched with a feathered crown and a sequinned eye look which bridged the gap between fun and classic. Throughout Galliano's tenure at Maison Margiela, he explored central motifs such as excess and escapism which fuelled dialogue within the fashion industry and in turn delved deeper into the meaning of haute couture and the notion of avante-garde.
Galliano’s final collection, Artisanal, brought together and redefined the male and female form to create a beautiful symbiosis. One of Galliano’s strengths is the ability to create expression and dialogue through his designs and his importance of how clothing can express a person’s soul. Maison Margiela explained the collection as such, “The ritual of dressing is a composition of the self. With the body as our canvas, we build an exterior expressive of the interior: a form of emotion”. With the notion of sustainability and upcycling throughout social media, Galliano used second hand clothing to construct this collection as he said “nothing is lost, everything is altered”. Artisanal embodied the essence of haute couture and hedonism with the fusion between genders. An example of this is a design made from black mesh that was accentuated with a white corset underlay. This took inspiration from night and the silhouette emphasising the curvature of the human body, the design stood out with the bold red hair that the model has that was styled in an avante-garde manner.
Galliano’s trajectory throughout his years within the fashion industry is emulated via his designs and his collections. His career is a testament to his transformative vision and unparalleled ability to merge history, theatre, and haute couture. From his early inspirations drawn from the grandeur of the French revolution to his groundbreaking work at Dior and Maison Margiela, he has continually redefined the boundaries of fashion. Galliano leaves behind a legacy that not only bridges the past with the present as well as bridging the divide between the male and female form but also elevates fashion into a realm of artistic and emotional expression. His work remains a celebration of the human form, of storytelling through his collections, and of the power of sartorial expression.
Written by Claudia Limaverde Costa
Edited by Daisy Packwood, Fashion Editor
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