LFW AW25 - AHKEKE - Whispers Of The Secret Garden: The Quiet Poetry Of The Natural World
At London Fashion Week, Ahkeke unveiled its AW25 collection, Whispers of the Secret Garden, bringing an unexpected burst of life and colour to the autumn/winter season. Designed by Ke Gong, the collection is inspired by the discovery of a hidden garden in London - a place of tranquility and natural wonder that informed the textures, hues, and structures of each piece.
Created after nine years of living in London, Ke Gong noticed how women gained pleasure from dressing themselves up, compared to standards in her homeland, China. Studying at Istituto Marangoni before completing her master’s at London College of Fashion, Ahkeke arose as a brand synonymous with sustainability and artistry. Gong’s work experience at Osman London and Alexander McQueen instilled a meticulous attention to detail, which is evident in her latest collection. Having been shortlisted for the 2018 Greenpeace x Arts Thread initiative, she continues to push boundaries in sustainable fashion while maintaining a poetic and refined aesthetic. Three years later, she has released her collection with an inspired, optimistic take on “the enjoyment of life.” In London’s creative district, Shoreditch, the Spring/Summer collection is displayed to a crowd of various ages.
Loungewear pieces flaunt cozy cashmere material which flow with elegance. The Ahkeke founder holds doctrines which coalesce comfort and style, as primarily seen in her steadfast inclusion of pockets. Beyond her innovative designs, Gong has been fundamental in the pocket revolution, advocating for functional and stylish pockets in women’s clothing. She remarked in an interview with us, “In my husband’s pockets, he could fit almost everything, and I couldn’t even fit my phone.” This frustration led her to incorporate well-structured, practical pockets into her designs, ensuring both elegance and utility without compromise.
The AW25 collection breaks free from conventional autumn and winter palettes, opting instead for rich, vibrant colors that celebrate nature’s resilience even in colder months. The runway was awash with bold greens, deep blues, and soft purples, mirroring the hidden beauty of nature’s elements. Rather than the usual muted tones of fall, Ahkeke’s designs radiate life, movement, and an organic flow reminiscent of a secret garden in full bloom. The flowy, thin material is reminiscent of the enthusiasm toward Spring and its associations with lightness. Although this collection was composed during the Winter, she was already in a Spring state of mind. Unexpectedly seeing blossomed flowers in Winter reminded her that the season ‘‘doesn’t have to be just all miserable.” Thus, there is a dignifying sense of resistance from actualising a Spring state of mind in the midst of Winter.
Textures play a key role in the collection, with structured tailoring juxtaposed against fluid knits and soft layers. A standout look featured a deep emerald-green cardigan and relaxed trousers, embodying the lushness of foliage. Another ensemble showcased a striking cobalt blue three-piece suit with oversized buttons, effortlessly merging strength and elegance. Meanwhile, a lavender and violet layered outfit captured the soft, delicate essence of petals swaying in the breeze. Each piece subtly reflects nature’s own architecture, with flowing silhouettes, organic folds, and contrasting materials creating a sense of harmony.
As such, it feels radical to see such a collection experiment by layering fabrics in a relaxed and seamless way. Yet, it explores the range of femininity - in being at peace at home, and with oneself, wearing wool - whilst appearing ready for the world in how the coarse, knitted material suggests. It seems as though pieces reference each other through being inverse in colour, which demonstrates the scope of creativity of Gong composing similar pieces through various materials.
Ahkeke’s Whispers of the Secret Garden is not just a fashion statement; it is an invitation to rediscover beauty in unexpected places. Gong’s vision reminds us that even in the colder months, nature thrives in hidden corners, waiting to be found. With this collection, Ahkeke offers a refreshing perspective on autumn/winter dressing - one that embraces colour, sustainability, and the quiet poetry of the natural world.
Images Courtesy of Black PR (Photo Credits: Chris Yates)
Written by Daria Slikker and Darina Babacheva
Edited by Daisy Packwood, Fashion Editor
Commentaires