LFW AW25 - GENARO RIVAS - Alchemy Of Ashes: The Collection

15 hours ago3 min read

‘Alchemy of Ashes’ marked Genaro Rivas’ fourth appearance at London Fashion Week. It showcased a dark, esoteric aesthetic - from the models' sleek, braided hair and dark makeup to his structured, black-heavy designs. Staged at The Swiss Church in Covent Garden before an audience of over 100, the collection underscored Rivas’ ambition and artistry.

Inspired by the 2015 cult horror film The Witch and its exploration of 17th-century occultism, Rivas wove mysticism into the collection’s 26 looks. Imagery of goats, snakes, and cats - creatures steeped in occult symbolism - were seamlessly integrated, demonstrating his ability to reinterpret traditional Peruvian textiles through a dark, modern lens. The collection itself surrounds the acceptance of change and transformation; alchemy is about transformation and transmutation, changing the state of one thing into another. Layering and cutouts are incorporated into the garments to reconstruct body structures, strung together with beads, zips, fringes, and straps; each piece undoubtedly gives the impression that transformation is imminent.

Like most of his collections, ‘Alchemy of Ashes’ was a collaborative endeavour, bringing together a team of creatives to enhance each piece. The beautiful garments would be incomplete without the hair and makeup styling by Richard Phillipart and Joanna Mitakidou, whose work added depth and theatricality to an already striking vision. Each look was further enriched by accessories crafted by Thomis Papadimitriou, providing an extra layer of artistry. The collaborative effort transformed the collection into an immersive experience of the occult, highlighting Rivas’ focus on collaboration in the world of fashion and art.

Rivas’ collection balanced structure and fluidity, blending rigid tailoring with mystic elements. External corset-style bodices sculpted the silhouettes Rivas paired against flowing trains of black mesh and fringe that moved with an arcane elegance. Dark tones like black and deep purple dominated the looks, creating a dramatic, moody aesthetic, while red accents wove through the designs, adding moments of striking contrast. Red beading outlined cutouts on trousers, laced across the back of jackets alongside white ribbon or mesh, and was pinned onto suit-style jackets like brooches, lending an ornamental touch. Fringe and leather detailing accented with zippers heightened the collection’s mystical and almost Gothic look, while silver hardware affixed an industrial edge. Adding another layer of depth, colourful prints of paintings and photographs taken by Rivas himself appeared across select pieces, layered beneath rigid bodices.

Rivas masterfully balances art and structure, enveloping the art in cage-like, transparent structures that frame rather than confine the pieces. One dress saw a remastering of the iconic Renaissance-era engraving ‘Witch Riding Backwards on a Goat’ by Albrecht Dürer; the iconography of the artwork was hand-embroidered onto a structured dress and accented by a flowing fringe of human hair, evoking an eerie sense of movement and ritualistic power. John Dixon’s painting ‘Incantation’ was included on the back of a unisex coat, the spectral imagery reinforcing Rivas’ exploration into mysticism, the supernatural, and transformation. By merging historical mystic iconography with contemporary tailoring, Rivas crafted a collection that felt both avant-garde and deeply evocative, pushing the boundaries between fashion, art, and storytelling.

The collection featured an array of jackets, reinforcing its bold, layered styling, while hair and makeup echoed the dark, rebellious energy of the designs. The four elongated braids seamlessly connected with the flowing fringe and laced materials, creating a sense of continuity. The braids were also a subtle yet powerful homage to Rivas’ home in Peru, as long, flowing braids are a common cultural hairstyle. The contrasting shorter-length, straight hair fashioned a coordinately sleek look, highlighting the deconstructed sleeves. The bewitching glossy black lip and shimmering eye shadow continued the intertwining of darkness and lustre, imbuing each look with a watery fluidity.

By reconstructing leftover materials from the collection into the final ‘Ashes’ dress, Rivas not only reinforces his commitment to sustainability but also eloquently embodies the narrative of transformation that defines this collection. The asymmetrical hemline and flowing mesh train invited a final impression of grandeur and fluidity. This closing piece stands as a creative and symbolic statement, breathing new life into discarded fabrics as a reminder of how change and beauty can emerge from remnants of the past. As the only Peruvian designer at London Fashion Week 2025, Rivas aspires to pave the way for fellow Peruvian designers to receive global recognition. His presence on one of the biggest international stages of fashion highlights his talent as an individual creative. It is a testament to the richness of Peruvian craftsmanship and artistry, as well as the potential for a greater Latin American representation in the fashion industry.