LFW AW25 - INDIA DAY - A Melting Pot Of Individualism
As the sun set on the third day of London Fashion Week, India Day unveiled its milestone tenth-season collection. Taking place just a few days after being showcased in NYFW, the anticipated India Day event headed to London, gathering students from the New York Fashion Institute (NIF) and The London School of Trends (LST) to celebrate Indian craftsmanship. The show aimed to carry Indian artistic prestige and was supported by the High Commission of India in London.
The pieces were mainly inspired by Indian fashion traditions, embracing its cheerfulness throughout a vivid palette and detailed embroidery. The creators had to take up the imposing challenge of reimagining classics, adapting them to fit within a trendy modern wardrobe.
A standout on the runway was an impressive pink coat, cascading into a dramatic train. The coat played into season trends of pattern blocking and colour contrasting. Forest green is expertly paired against deep fuchsia satin fabric. The effect is a daring statement, yet achieves an undeniably wearable look, even beyond festive occasions. Drama was key and, whilst attending the show, I easily envisioned many of the elegant evening gowns on a red carpet. Notably, a striking bustier and dress set with grey shades that could perfectly match a luxurious night.
Likewise, many silhouettes on the catwalk subtly incorporated the traditional sari, demystifying the iconic piece so that clients can showcase it in their everyday life. Modern iterations of this traditional garment offer contemporary, wearable designs. An ink blue piece, pictured to the right, is expertly paired with white tailored trousers and sleek blue heels. It is a design combination that speaks to the ongoing priority of the showcasing designers throughout this presentation. The designers offer expert blending of India’s cultural inheritance with practicality
However, whilst many risks were admirably taken regarding the choice for prints and colors, I fear the silhouettes themselves could have been more audacious. The dynamic was palpable, a desire from designers to create outstanding and poetic clothes that let us a glimpse of their vision – but could’ve been pushed further. For instance, embroidered roses on a dress, meant to appear as if they were emerging from it, were an enchanting idea - but the execution could have been more refined.
On other looks, embroidered florals appeared like fleeting apparitions - an explosion of petals, a firework frozen mid-bloom. Designers found a fresh way to revive florals without overwhelming the silhouette. One of my favourite ideas is sailor's ropes sewn directly onto the dress which created a surrealist, magnificent effect. Handling perfectly the balance, the stylist’s embellishments, embroideries and accessories offered a poetical impression overall.
Significantly, contrasting with the vibrant ambiance inside, the show was held in a religious and traditional setting: the historic St John’s Church in Marylebone. One could easily notice how the gowns , inspired by the rich heritage of India, and the neoclassical architecture of the room were both part of the show. Interestingly, the church situated on the outskirts of Hyde Park was built in 1822. A year in which, although not yet legally a colony, India was in practice under British coercive, governed by the British East India Company.
Who knows if this paradox was planned, or rather an interesting coincidence? I, anyhow, took it as a poetic symbol. To me, the collection echoes concepts we have discussed at STRAND, tackling our very perceptions of the sari, shaped by the imperialistic gaze, whilst claiming that its modern redesign by South Asian women is crucial as an act of ‘reclamation of culture’, ultimately trying to reposition the item away from its colonial history.
Moments like this within LFW are precious, allowing a dialogue between artistic worlds that emerged apart and rarely coexist. While the colourful pieces flowed down the runway, between stained-glass windows, the audience was just as inspiring. Young reporters, stylists and influencers dressed to impress, wearing fun and creative pieces such as Lala Roswess and Jay Eka matching caveman total looks.
Although it has been argued lately that London’s rule in the industry is diminishing - compared to the established Paris, Milan or New York fashion weeks, I believe London’s ability to be a melting pot of individualism is needed. We need an alternative, spontaneous fashion scene that doesn’t always take itself too seriously. In the face of the super-fast fashion scene that aims perfection and control, London’s designers bring humanity to the core of their runway. This collection introduced brand new promising designers that we look forward to seeing grow and gain confidence. London remains necessary in the fashion industry as a place where innovation, joy, and above all tenderness can bloom, and India Day understood the assignment.
Images Courtesy of Simon Nora-Dreyfus
Written by Simon Nora-Dreyfus
Edited by Daisy Packwood, Fashion Editor
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