LFW AW25 - INF DARK - The Raven: A Snapshot Into The Mysterious Mind of Kuo Wei
Deconstruction and reconstruction. A juxtaposing concept that could present as a challenge when delivering a London Fashion Week presentation. Yet, Kuo Wei accomplished this vision and took to the runway a symbol as mysterious and alluring as the brand itself: The Raven.
After graduating from Shih-Chien University & Institute, Kuo Wei established INF in 2011. His designs feature bold silhouettes and patterns, and his versatile garments are crafted to suit anyone. I had the opportunity of watching INF's most recent runway with their collection inspired by the enigmatic raven during London Fashion Week. Even more so, I had the pleasure of discussing the collection and brand with the visionary himself. I was initially interested in what sparked his now decades long interest with the fashion industry.
“I have always liked to decorate since my childhood, whether that’s decorating myself or other people,” he explains, “From that I see things in different perspectives, I’m always wondering how I can start my own trends whenever I look at fashion today”. Individual style and expression is an integral part to INF's ethos, he shares how he aspired to “create a new flow” and how his inspiration stems from an individual's ability to “affect the whole world through creation.”
I then asked about his ambition and vision as a designer, he reiterated his awe over the power of an individual’s aesthetic. “I wish myself to become one of them too,” he begins, “I believe fashion is a soft power of revolution within this world, I think it can make this world a better place.”
This sentiment is echoed through INF's clothing. The brand exudes an unique aura, and yet it is “a place that embraces everyone” regardless of the expressive journey taken. Wei is a designer who puts his thoughts into action: here, this is manifested into the construction of his garments. The silhouettes are an iconic and memorable part of Wei's designs; it acts as a feature that makes it stand out. “Silhouettes are the first eye-catching part beyond other details,” he states. Going on to elaborate that, “fashion has the power to change the stereotype, which means by wearing our garment you can easily transform into anyone or anything you like to be. The purpose is to help people raise their self recognition by the power of fashion.”
INF’s transformative element is another feature that sets them apart. Considering the intricacy and thought put into each garment, it is clear that sustainability is a core pillar to the brand.
“At first, I'm just trying to enrich the detail of every design,” the designer vocalises his thought process into his piece's versatility.” After lots of failure and experimentation, I found out the possibility of actually changing a garment into another. Skirts, trousers, or T-shirts can be transformed into tote bags, for example.”
Whilst many corporations actively seek to hook their customers into a cycle of over-consumption in the light of fast-fashion, Kuo Wei combats this by delving into another dimension of the industry. It is clear he is a designer that cares deeply about his craft - each garment has unlimited potential and has several modes of wear, “I hope to keep the possibility of every garment, as fashion should be alive rather than just a routine. Compared with recycling and reproduction, I believe the ability for designs to be multifunctional are better if trying to limit waste.”
Colour is often a feature designers rely on to convey their story, Wei however explores other aspects of design and built INF to become “a brand good at transforming structure and cultural storyteller.” The brand stands for “infinite dark fashion”, and he initially designed exclusively in black and white because he “was possessed by the power of black”, he then explains that, “it's so deep you cannot see the end if you look into it”. This fixation away from colour opened the doors for Wei to challenge himself: “If I can only use black then I should have figured out how to rich other details on a garment.” A concept apparent in the collection. Particularly in a majestic black overcoat with detailing that resembled the feathers of a raven. The silhouette very cleverly mimics the contour of the mysterious bird, the arms mirror its wings and the form of the overcoat falls to a tip resembling the tail and body - the monotone use of colour skillfully enhances this.
An engaging narrative is always captivating, and this underpins much of Kuo Wei’s approach to design. When I asked how he approaches designing a collection, he replied: “I absorb as many stories as I can”. This is his primary driving force behind his creations.
“I'm the kind of designer who needs to start with story reading and research. It's hard for me to just create something from nothing. I need to feel it, being touched by it first, let it sink in and digest in me.” The designer emphasises the importance of meaning, a motivating factor that is central to his designs and he places great time and care for it, “After all that I will start sketching based on the stories I read”, he details, “it's always a thrill to me to actually see the imagination in my mind becoming reality when I see the perfectly done garment.”
An intricate and thoughtful process that is also evident in the fusion of Eastern and Western fashion. Wei’s insatiable thirst for stories and dedication to reading caused him to be, “obsessed about the idea of adding new flavor to orthodox version of the story.” This interest eventually became second nature for him to “merge two different ideas together.” What most find starkly foreign from each other, the designer's interest lies in uniting these two worlds together. “Based on the differences of culture,” Wei states, “we actually fit in each-others missing parts, and that's what makes the creation perfect” - an amicable approach that is refreshing to see.
Wei has proved his prowess as a designer time and time again, and his collection ‘The Raven’ is yet another testament to his exceptional skill. His ability to convey narratives through the silhouettes and patterns positions him as an exceptional storyteller, while the multi-functional aspect highlights innovative genius.
All Images Courtesy of Black PR
Written by Kaavya Guhan
Edited by Daisy Packwood, Fashion Editor
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