LFW AW25 - RAY CHU - The Eternal Resilience Of Blue Cypress: The Place Of Nature At LFW
Anxiously walking up the stairs alone to Ray Chu’s London Fashion Week show I tightly grasped the complimentary sparkling drink in my hands and smoothed down my pleated skirt awkwardly, like a fish out of water surrounded by attendees in strikingly avant-garde looks. However as I walked into the room my self-consciousness dissipated and was replaced with utter shock at the unconventional runway imagined by Chu - I was not beholding a stream of models walking up and down, with me sitting down somewhere in a series of rows to try and catch a glimpse of the looks, but rather an ornate dinner table stretching across one side of the room completed with tiered cake, meticulously organised fruit and hyperbolically overfilled silver chalices of butter.
Although the models entered from the other side of the room and paused for photos to give a full view of the collection, they proceeded to position themselves around the table, interacting with the items creating a dynamic perspective of the clothing they were wearing. With one of the models scooping a taste of the creamy cake, the entire set up evoked a sense of 18th century Versailles brought into 2025. These centrepieces also had strategically placed ‘Crinum Asiaticum’ flowers, the significance of which Chu has explained in previous interviews, and he expands on when I catch up with him after the show.
Curious about the evolution of the plant world in the collection at LFW, I asked Chu whether he had a specific natural motif in mind when designing the collection. Chu explained the significance of the blue cypress which was incorporated not only into the clothing, but was also shown in the form of jewellery. He poignantly stated that his message in the blue cypress was to serve as ‘a constant reminder for me to stay strong and never give up, no matter the challenges we face’, as the cypress ‘[symbolises] resilience and strength’. Notably, he also says that the cypress has a more personal connection to himself, as his name and the cypress are both ‘po’ in Mandarin.
The natural world is also inherent in Chu’s work through his dedication to sustainability; Chu has been known to use deadstock fabric and vegan leather made from recycled tea leaves in his pieces historically. Chu said that as a brand Ray Chu Studios anticipate this continued move towards ‘sustainable fabrics’, whilst battling the challenges of balancing using ‘sequins and sparkling fabrics’ for their stand-out pieces. Chu’s pieces are all marketed as made to order rather than limited collections or drops, and on this Chu is clear; his decision is supported by the constant reports on ‘fast fashion and the impact on climate change’.
Many of the looks consisted of suits or corresponding sets, however the most striking was undeniably the design that drew the most visually from the Cypress. The barely-there minidress hugged the arms close to the sides of the body and was covered in tiny blue cypress models may not be the most practical of dresses, but it is unequivocally the most eye-catching and subversive of the looks showcased. The harsh blue spikes were difficult to pull your gaze from, even amidst the sea of decadent food and sequins on the stage, and perhaps were indicative of Chu’s message for the entire collection.
Chu’s previous collections have been known to embody heartbreak, healing and independence and I asked Chu if this collection follows on from any of those themes. In a perfectly concise response Chu told me that ‘some elements naturally evolve from previous themes’ and that this collection develops the other motifs and brings them into a new season.
A look that defined all of these in the show was his subversive side-button suit. The tailored waist with exaggerated shoulders created a silhouette that builds itself around the frame of the wearer; Chu mentioned he creates fashion that does not need to have a gender, and here the silhouette creates its own frame absent of gender specific traits. The flood trousers continue this trend, moving and posing themselves with a life of their own irrespective of whose legs are wearing them. The upturned collar created an air of effortless cool, and recalled the themes of independence Chu’s collections have previously embodied.
Chu’s collection was laden with experimentation, a combination of more conventional pieces for everyday wear juxtaposed with the truly unusual. His showcase offered something for everyone, a notion that is a particular achievement for a sustainable slow-fashion brand producing only made-to -order pieces. Experiencing fashion in motion through his non-conformist lens surrounded by the 'base-y' tracks selected by the designated DJ characterises both Chu’s collection and his show as an indisputably unique escapade.
All Images Courtesy of Ray Chu
Written by Maaya Karuppiah
Edited by Daisy Packwood, Fashion Editor
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