LFW AW25 - TEMPERLEY LONDON - La Victoire: Elegant Revivalism

1 day ago4 min read

Elegant, romantic, and dreamy, Temperley London celebrated its 25th anniversary by unveiling a new Autumn/Winter collection entitled La Victoire at London Fashion Week.

The designs drew inspiration from the Napoleonic era, progressing into the early 1900s aristocracy and the art deco period. The collection features illustrious embellishments such as tassels, embroidery, and medallic motifs, all while maintaining her signature romantic and whimsical style. The collection, showcased at the elegant Temperley store in Sloane Avenue, radiated sophistication and timeless charm. The intimate presentation featured five models who gracefully rotated through a series of meticulously crafted designs, allowing guests to appreciate and take photos of the intricate details of each piece. The colour palette ranged from red and royal blues to convey the power of the Napoleonic era to soft pinks and blues to classic black and white colours that embody the 20th century charm, offering a harmonious balance of femininity and boldness. Distinctive styling elements, such as striking red berets and a timeless red lip, added a touch of Parisian flair while complementing the collection’s romantic and whimsical aesthetic.

An example of a Napoleonic era inspired design is a white structured jacket, intricately embroidered with medallic motifs. These motifs, inspired by the elaborate military regalia and decorative emblem worn by Napoleon’s officers, symbolise power, authority, and a sense of grandeur. To soften the jacket’s rigid, masculine silhouette and add a touch of femininity, it was paired with a sheer tulle dress that used the appliqué technique to add white detailing as well as medallic imagery and red ribbon around the bodice, including a medal in the centre of the chest. This juxtaposition creates a harmonious balance between masculine strength and feminine delicacy, blending historical references with contemporary flair. Modern elegance was introduced through bold red accessories, including a classic leather alizarin-crimson beret and a signature firetruck-red lip. These vivid accents not only added a striking contrast to the crisp white ensemble but also echoed the boldness of Napoleonic theme of power while maintaining a romantic flair.

Another design is a classic red knitted cardigan skirt set adorned with blue flowers. This style, first popularised by Coco Chanel during the 1920s Art Deco movement, featured a structured box frame and bold gold buttons, embodying sophistication and feminine empowerment. In its modern reinterpretation, the co-ord was styled with a bare chest beneath the cardigan, adding a bold, contemporary twist that challenges traditional notions of modesty. This daring choice emphasises body confidence and self-expression, while gold statement accessories such as a chunky chain-link necklace and a blue floral bandana headband further modernised the look, blending timeless elegance with a rebellious, fashion-forward edge while maintaining the classic Temperley chic.

Opulent embroidery was another recurring element in this collection, exemplified by this classic black A-line dress adorned with beautiful silver embellishments. Inspired by the geometric opulence of the 1920s Art Deco movement, the dress features intricate, symmetrical patterns reminiscent of the era’s bold, decorative design and luxurious craftsmanship. The metallic detailing echoes the ornate military regalia of the Napoleonic era, symbolising power and prestige, while the structured silhouette reflects the disciplined elegance. The accessories for this design include silver, sparkly oval drop earrings, leather knee-high boots, and a black ribbon tied beneath the collar, adding a delicate touch that preserves the soft elegance that Temperley is known for. The sharp contrast between the crisp white blouse and the richly embellished black dress mirrors the Art Deco movement’s love for striking juxtapositions, blending modern sophistication with historical grandeur.

The showstopping aspect of this collection, for me, was this rose-coloured halter-backless mermaid gown that was intricately appliquéd with pink flowers and silver detailing. This gown draws inspiration from the 1920s art deco period underscoring the enduring notions of luxury, elegance and glamour. This gown was paired with a simple, but elegant silver open-toed strappy heel as well as a floral inspired stud earring with a drop oval gemstone. These accessories elevate this design while allowing the gown itself to shine. The art deco movement was a period of time in which the rich elite harnessed the exuberant nature of fashion and the rise in opulent consumption after the first world war. Temperley used this concept to convey the harmony between the metallics that were popular in the art deco movement as well as the pastels that saw a rise in prominence during the Napoleonic era.

Temperley is acclaimed for her attention to detail, which is prominently showcased in this collection. She is known for taking classic or historical concepts and transforming them with a modern yet romantic aesthetic that aligns with her signature style. An example of this is a classic white shirt that Temperley reimagined by incorporating a series of embroidered 'T’s,' adding a contemporary and avant-garde twist to the timeless piece.

Moreover, drawing inspiration from the Art Deco movement and the 1920s, Temperley embraced the resurgence of the iconic 'flapper look.' She incorporated the flapper style into the bodice and train of the dress, while the addition of embroidery and embroidered ribbon along the neckline and main body lends a modern and elegant touch to the historical design. The delicate and intricate embroidery complements the fluid, free-spirited nature of the flapper silhouette, adding texture and depth while maintaining a sense of movement. This embellishment not only enhances the luxurious feel of the dress but also creates a striking contrast between the vintage-inspired shape and the contemporary craftsmanship. By combining these elements, Temperley successfully merges old-world glamour with a fresh, modern perspective, reinforcing her elegant design language.

This collection embodies Temperley’s class and elegance and her way of reinventing and upgrading ‘dated’ pieces to fit within the modern world. La Victoire exudes Temperley’s romantic yet whimsical take on the Napoleonic era and bold colours such as reds and blues; and her use of medals to elevate designs such as a seemingly simple white trench coat. As the collection progresses, the beautiful intricate evening wear is inspired by the aristocracy of the early 1900s, showing detailed embroidery and the appliqué technique with soft pastels. Temperley’s attention to detail captivates her audience and the motifs prevalent within the collection demonstrates her eye for detail.