LFW AW25 - WANNI FUGA - Refined Expressionism
For Toluwani Wabara, creator of luxury womenswear brand Wanni Fuga, fashion is more than just clothing—it’s a representation of her roots, experiences, and the journey that has shaped her brand since its creation in 2014. Her Nigerian upbringing has always been an essential part of her designs, with every piece symbolising a link to her African heritage. We had the pleasure of interviewing Wabara during the presentation of her brand’s AW25 collection last Sunday, where we asked her how her upbringing has impacted her designs. She replied, ever-so-coolly, that her mission is to “keep putting Africa on the global map”. Unphased by the weight of her ambitions and the booming beats courtesy of DJ Mercedes Benson, Wabara’s enthusiasm for her brand sounded aloud above the background noise.
Alongside the pieces which form the new collection, one of the designer’s most cherished creations is the very first piece she ever designed - the Beryl Set. Deeply beloved, the brand continued selling it for an extended period—until they finally had to retire it due to its enduring popularity, but Wabara explains that the set has been used as inspiration in her more recent collections. Echoes of the Beryl Set can be seen in the co-ords produced for this season, such as the Flora Bodysuit and Skirt, which similarly draw attention to the shoulders with a simpler bottom-half complimenting a bolder top. However, whilst the structured nature of the Beryl set exudes professionalism, the materiality and opulence of the Flora set calls to mind one word: luxury. Organza ruffles form the asymmetrical top, which is beautifully complimented by the more understated, but still elegant, silk skirt, which is pleated in line with the bodysuit.
Despite graduating with a degree in engineering from the University of Sheffield, Wabara remarks that she never entered the field professionally, instead diving head-first into a career in fashion design as a postgraduate. However, she acknowledges that her engineering background has played a crucial role in her approach to design, aiding her in structural thinking, problem-solving, and brand management. Thoughtful craftsmanship, which stems from Wabara’s educational background, is something that sets Wanni Fuga apart from the rest. The Saf Co-Ord, stands out as one of the most carefully crafted pieces in the collection. The top is a beautiful piece on its own, yet blends seamlessly into the skirt thanks to the pearlescent buttons that line both pieces. The set is comprised of denim, which gives the top its structure, but the added linen brings a softness to the skirt. The materiality is unusual for Wanni Fuga, but the logo-embroidered shirt pocket and elongated shape retain the brand’s unmistakable sense of luxury. The monogrammed belt ties the look together, cinching the waist and balancing the formality of the oversized collar.
“Bold” and “extravagant” are the two words that come to mind when we asked Wabara to describe her aesthetic. Over the years, her collection has evolved into an incredibly diverse range. While her early designs hinged upon these values, Wabara was aware of the fact that some consumers aired concerns that certain pieces were “too dressy” for everyday wear: “I want people to feel comfort”, she declared. In response to this feedback, she and her team introduced more casual pieces, such as the Fuga Tank Top from the SS25 collection, to ensure accessibility while maintaining the brand’s signature essence. For AW25, the brand introduced the Indiana Shirt Dress paired with the Azalea Pant. The yellow-and-green monogram pattern is bold, yet the silky charmeuse exudes both elegance and comfort, creating a versatile look which can be dressed up or down with the right accessories.
Wabara’s passion for comfort came up again when we asked her what statement piece should be found in every modern woman’s closet, recommending a classic oversized t-shirt. When we asked about the next steps for the brand, however, a line of oversized tees doesn’t appear to be on the agenda. Looking ahead, the brand has ambitious aspirations. With a growing following and a clear design identity, Wabara and her team hope to see their pieces stocked in major department stores soon, bringing her vision of empowerment and heritage to an even wider audience.
Last season’s collection saw the introduction of the “Verbena Robe” - a layerable chiffon piece originally debuted in black and wine-red, and indeed, the cascading folds do call to mind the pouring of rich wine. Described by the brand as “luxurious” and “oversized”, the piece is the perfect versatile addition to any simple ensemble, be it for warmth or simply to accessorize. Here at STRAND, we were pleased to see the reintroduction this fashion season of the Verbena Robe and the Dedun Skirt, alongside the reinvention of the Azalea Robe in white chantilly lace, and the introduction of the Twist Robe in black. The Azalea and Twist robes have a similar silhouette to the Verbena Robe, but differ in their materiality and the extra forearm coverage they provide. The robes have become a true Wanni Fuga staple due to their versatility in style. Their most recent presentation saw the Verbena Robe draped over a nude mannequin, whereas the Azalea and Twist Robes were paired with the signature Iris Bodysuit and Dress from last season.
Inspiration for Wabara’s designs often comes after long walks and the occasional travelling - two activities that allow her to absorb different cultures, landscapes, and experiences. As for other brands that inspire her, Cult Gaia was cited as a personal favourite. This latest collection, marking a decade in the industry, is a testament to her journey. The colours used in the collection symbolize the “strength and resilience” that has defined her path in fashion. Another reimagining, the Flora Bodysuit and Skirt, constructed from organza and silk, which debuted last season in red and blue, were redesigned for this season in green and yellow. The recycling of previous designs in new colours shows both the importance of colour and timelessness in Wabara’s creations.
As she reflects on the past ten years, Wabara’s journey is a testament to perseverance, evolution, and staying true to one’s roots - qualities that continue to define both her brand and herself.
All Images Courtesy of Black PR
Written by Lucy Wragg and Mariza Michailidou
Edited by Daisy Packwood, Fashion Editor
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