LFWSS25 - Avant-Garde Minimalism Meets Theatrical Flourish: A Fashion Show for the Bold and Experimental, JENN LEE
In a striking display of avant-garde artistry, Taiwanese designer JENN LEE’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection at London Fashion Week unveiled pieces that blurred the lines between minimalist elegance and bold, theatrical flair. The runway, set against the backdrop of rustic wooden panels that lined the walls of Conway Hall, provided the perfect canvas for a series of black-and-white looks that commanded attention to their intricate details, unconventional silhouettes, and futuristic edge.
A Play on Geometry and Identity
The show opened with a mesmerising all-black ensemble that immediately set the tone for the collection’s experimental approach. The model donned a fitted off-shoulder top with asymmetrical detailing, which flowed seamlessly into a structured skirt featuring complex draping. This was also paired with black leather boots and gloves, making the look feel both futuristic and ritualistic as if the model were a character in a high-fashion dystopia. The highlight, however, was the oversized circular headpiece, resembling a mask or shield, obscuring the model’s face with a grid pattern. This headpiece evoked themes of anonymity and concealment of identity, while simultaneously playing with geometric forms and textures. Lee was inspired by Chinese calligraphy so, in collaboration with ATELIER WOWA, integrated lettering and 3D embroidery into the hats.
Gender-Neutral Designs and Androgynous Aesthetic
Continuing the theme of bold experimentation, the second look took the runway with a gender-neutral silhouette that emphasised the fluidity between masculine and feminine design. The model, with platinum blonde hair and red, acupuncture needles under their eyes, wore an oversized black blouse with angular cuts, paired with wide-legged trousers. The trousers featured an unusual patchwork of fabric that added a utilitarian, almost deconstructed element to the otherwise clean and structured look. The striking red acupuncture needles on the face took centre stage, as Lee partnered with the Taiwanese cosmetic acupuncture brand SALIENT. The red acupuncture needles, which framed the eyes like bold lashes and highlighted the facial frame, evoked a sense of alignment and energy flow, reinforcing Lee’s intent to blur traditional gender boundaries while embracing an androgynous, almost otherworldly aesthetic.
The Intersection of Softness and Strength
The final look in this trio of designs marked a shift from the intense black tones to a bright, almost ethereal white. It featured asymmetrical cuts that introduced a softness to the otherwise sharp and commanding collection. The top’s flowing drape across one shoulder gave an air of nonchalance, contrasted with the high-fashion tailoring of the wide-leg trousers. The outfit was accessorised with subtle metallic accents, from a delicate gold brooch to small, understated embellishments, signalling a balance between strength and fragility. The model’s sharp yet soft features are also amplified by the acupuncture needles that further accentuate their cheekbones and forehead. Completing the look with minimalist black ankle boots, the airy ensemble grounded with a sense of power and stability.
The Fusion of Ancient Tradition and Futuristic Fashion
Throughout the collection, the subtle but powerful use of acupuncture-inspired marking added a deeper dimension to the collection’s narrative. By integrating these points onto the models’ faces, Lee seemed to evoke the idea of fashion as a healing practice, a way of aligning one’s identity with the world around them. In the same way that acupuncture focuses on restoring balance within the body, the garments and their presentation sought to restore balance between contrasting ideas – soft and hard, masculine and feminine, future and tradition.
Final Thoughts
This collection serves as a masterclass in contrasting ideas – minimalism versus maximalism, anonymity versus identity, and softness versus structure. By incorporating elements like oversized headpieces, asymmetrical cuts, and androgynous styling by Callum Smith, Lee successfully presented a vision that transcends conventional fashion, inviting the audience to reimagine the boundaries of wearability and self-expression. The integration of acupuncture points on the models’ faces further heightened the collections’ depth, offering a spiritual layer to the futuristic aesthetic. Moreover, the interplay of theatrical and subdued elements throughout the show suggests that this collection is not merely about fashion, but rather, pushing the conversation around identity, gender and the future of style going forward.
In an era when fashion often straddles the line between the commercial and the conceptual, this show dares to lean into the latter, offering garments that provoke thought as much as they do admiration. With its commitment to the avant-garde, this collection stands as a testament to fashion’s power to challenge norms, redefine beauty, and ultimately, balance the old with the new.
To see more from JENN LEE and this amazing LFWSS25 collection, follow them on Instagram @jennlee_official
Photo @msmiejkowska
Stylist @callumsmitth
Key Hair @dennisfei_official
Key Makeup @kite_makeup
Embroidery @mowa.l.official
Head dresser @mellonieyasmina
Music @cloudyku.her
PR @dyelogpr
Written by Daria Slikker
Edited by Holly Anderson
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