LFWSS25 - SABIRAH's New Collection is An Artful Love Letter To Modesty.
Less is more? SABIRAH’s Deborah Latouche certainly doesn’t think so. Her recent collection, LOVINGLY MODEST, debuted at London Fashion Week Spring-Summer 2025 and was an artful love letter to modesty.
To a soundtrack of timeless songs of romance, the show opened with the elegant silhouette of an angular, asymmetrically draped pashmina paired with sandy high-waisted trousers and platform heels, pictured to the right.
The trousers, with a satin strip up the exterior leg seam, offer a tasteful, mature take on the dressed-up tracksuit trend sweeping the scene. Similar pairs have been seen on the likes of Kristin Stewart and Blake Lively. They also are proof that beige doesn’t have to mean bland. Here, this neutral colour palette paired with the ‘Paisley Rainbow’ shawl, a new print from the brand, allows the tailoring, and construction to take centre stage. The genius of the simplicity in the design can shine.
“It is nice for me as a designer to push the constraints of design to think about how to make [each design] more interesting, because it is modest”, Latouche said in an interview earlier this year with FashionUnited. Something that remains a focus for the designer. When styled with large, oversized sunglasses and glimpses of silvery metals from the shirt and shoes, a real ‘rockstar’ edge is created.
The use of metallics is a theme throughout the show. However, interestingly, we saw it being utilised in two very different, yet equally effective, ways.
Whilst in the previous look metallics added edge, youthfulness, and fun, this stunning ankle-length maxi dress offers a different tone. The sheen of gold fabric is an effective choice and achieves a look that speaks for itself. The expert tailoring on the shoulders and arms, as well as the flattering placement of a waistband, creates a simple, yet elegant, silhouette. Here, accessories have been paired back to the very basic and unassuming - only gold drop earrings and gold stilettos.
This look is one that is all at once both distinctive and simple. Something that is a hard line to toe as a designer, it’s so easy to over-construct and over-accessorise. Clearly, Latouche understands the mastery of a statement piece. She allows the artful draping and flow of the fabric to do the talking, creating a delightfully flattering and comfortable flowy silhouette.
Such soft lines offer a perfect contrast to the next look presented. A monochromatic aqua extravaganza, shown below, that is all high-necks, sharp cuts, and bold choices. The designer offers her own take on the conventional pantsuit; she includes a striking duck-egg blue shawl constructed from stiff dense fabric. Paired with a lace trim collar and loose bow at the waist. The result is striking.
The collar is perhaps what draws my eye the most in this look. Reminiscent of a Victorian ruffle, the large gold button fastening paired with the fragility of the lace is the perfect combination for a design that pairs the harsh with the soft. The straight lines and sharp creases of the shawl and trousers are contrasted with the unstructured bow and delicate finishings. A perfect example of how a look that is, at its core, a shirt and trousers can be creatively manipulated to be feminine and dainty, whilst also maintaining an overall impression of power and prestige.
Inspiration being pulled from the Victorian era does not end here. Another of the looks presented a long-structured cream two-piece clearly draws inspiration from this time. The puff sleeves are a homage to the wide, bustled silhouettes of the past. An unexpected theme on the runways of Spring-Summer 2025. Gyrouree Kim, another London-based designer also presented looks inspired by the romanticism of the Romantic age.
The look to the left is a standout in terms of fabric choice - it is a lovely example of the importance of textures in design. With an almost floral motif across the fabric, the raised texture adds an interesting dynamic to the look and, being a monochrome ensemble, prevents the design from being too plain.
Ultimately, the show concluded with two bridal-inspired looks. One of which is pictured to the right. Constructed from end-of-life Italian silk, taffeta, and striped organza, these cream gowns explore the delightful blend of femininity and form that SABIRAH has done so well in the past.
Both pieces combine all the innovative elements of design that are present throughout the collection. The structured shawls, flowy fabrics, and expert tailoring all culminate with the addition of pearl-embellished head coverings to create two timelessly wearable designs.
Latouche has proven, once again, that SABIRAH is a brand making waves and creating a name for herself as a forerunner of demi-couture design.
Written by Daisy Packwood
Edited by Holly Anderson and Daisy Packwood, Fashion Editors
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