LFWSS25 - Schooled By Nom!nal: The Fashion Deviants
This London Fashion Week SS25 was taken over by a radical troop of individuals who identify as ‘The School of Defiance’, executing a revolutionary lesson on the subject of Fashion. Founders of Nom!nal Sean Solomon and Krisztina Kalman’s unique exhibition personified London’s diverse suburbs through its allusions to popular culture, representing the multi-faceted nature of the diverse city. Co-Founder and Creative Director Solomon highlighted in an interview with Flanelle Magazine that their aesthetic is “contemporary iconoclast fashion”, defining their ethos as fighting against established beliefs, intending to spark conversation through the configuration of controversial looks.
As new students to Nom!nal’s ‘School of Defiance’, a key lesson to note is that the brand encourages self-expression and creativity, rejecting traditional institutional values. Sean and Krisztina’s project seeks to break barriers and transcend societal conventions regarding gender, sexuality and ethnicity. They insist everybody is important to their brand, as such their name is somewhat paradoxical as nobody is made to feel negligible or small, epitomising a sense of community spirit. The spectacle pays homage to the idea that the people define London; the city is not entirely self-made but a melting pot which blends the artistry of both black and white cultures. Nom!nal welcomes us to their fashion school as long as we embrace our differences and we are unafraid to bend the rules!
Particularly iconic looks on the runway this month were exhibited by models Yasmin and J. Alexander who strutted down the catwalk hand-in-hand wearing matching black and white school-inspired uniforms. Yasmin sported a figure-hugging black mesh midi dress with a sultry plunging neckline. The white abstract piping which details her dress is reminiscent of flames and alludes to the boldness of Nom!nal. In collaboration with this fiery outfit, the model's vivacious, curly orange hair and bold red lip perfectly complemented the exposition. Her chunky platform black leather boots completed the punky vision.
J. Alexander’s iconic look turned heads and instantly reminded us why Nom!nal are causing waves at this year's fashion week. The stylish rebel was accessorised by pearls and silver necklaces, his face studded by daring jewellery. The variation of textures and materials, from elegant lace gloves to battered leather combat boots encapsulated various cultures within London’s suburbs from the upmarket streets of Chelsea to the grungy Camden Town. The addition of the black trench coat draped over the shoulders and matching black beret creates a recognisable city chic look. Then followed the two-piece set: a sporty, mesh A-line bandeau top detailed with a cobweb print and a striped mini skirt. Print trousers cover the legs underneath the skater skirt, altogether finalising the unorthodox look. However, the most poignant element of the entire display was the explicit subversion of gender norms. In true Nom!nal style, their school does not assign a gendered uniform, destroying the limits which shackle certain clothes to certain gender expressions. Advocating for fashion freedom, they instil a radically optimistic attitude for the future of clothes for all.
Their distinctive ‘riot’ is what really set them apart from other brands at this fashion week. After the show, they took their catwalk beyond the glitz and glamour of the runway stage. School is out, but the lessons are not over as the models of Nom!nal took to the city streets with red flares smoking and speakers booming. Sean and Krisztina aimed to expand their reach and impact, ensuring even the general public can engage with their meaningful collection. This emphasised Nom!nal’s desire to make fashion accessible to all, generating a political undertone which addresses controversies of elitism within the industry. The mob of rock ‘n’ roll-style studded jackets, punk leather and edgy designs encapsulated the city's rugged, grungy personality and heritage. Paying homage to other creative industries, the pieces borrow elements from drill and hip-hop, the sound of London, which is a profound intention of Sean and Krisztina who aim to portray the interdependence of these sectors.
The socially progressive, innovative brand takes a refreshing perspective within the fashion world. The 'subversive school' theme is ideal for their concept as modern-day fashion is embedded in deep origins which have evolved across time and possess the ability to teach the masses. Understanding Nom!nal’s cultural and political influences allows us to appreciate the mastery behind the pieces, rooted in the history of London. Nom!nal proves they are unafraid to express their political voices through their striking fashion propaganda, experimenting with gender stereotypes and protesting elitism within the industry. Their London Fashion Week parade is taking contemporary fashion to new heights as their collection is modern art that should be admired and reflected upon.
Written by Emma Kemp
Edited by Holly Anderson
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