LFWSS25 - What Justin Cassin Almost Was
Justin Cassin is no stranger to the catwalk. Since his namesake label debuted in 2017 the designer has shot to success as a forerunner in modern menswear pieces. The brand has showcased at many a global fashion week and maintains the ethos of its founder to “stay true to yourself, but always push the boundaries”.
Cassin’s most recent fashion appearance was with his new spring-summer collection at London Fashion Week. A presentation that shows how the designer attempts to walk the balance between casual practicality and creative design. The collection saw the traditional spring colour schemes of muted pastel blue, pink, and cream hues used, alongside the more electric additions of bright orange, burnt umber, and deep reds.
A standout piece that showcases Cassin’s ability as a designer to cater to the modern man is this soft textured v-neck jumper. Cherry red, this gently oversized jumper has been tailored in a universally flattering way. The hemlines fall on the model's hips and wrists in a way that exudes ‘quiet luxury’, which, when paired with linen-style loose-fitting Bermuda shorts, and classic boat shoes makes for an elegant showcase of the perfect spring outfit, suitable for chilly evenings by the beach or weekend picnics in the park.
Where the jumper is ‘quiet luxury’, Justin Cassin’s take on the retro letterman jacket is anything but. Here, the designer leans into all things loud. Firstly, by his choice of bright orange leather contrasted with black piping and embellishments. This is certainly a statement piece of urban streetwear that would have heads turning. The jacket is likewise also a perfect layering piece. As the seasons transition it is important to be prepared for all turns in the weather. Cassin’s design allows for flexibility and practicality - he is thinking of the modern man and his clothing needs. Paired with black sunglasses, straight-leg trousers, and round-toed brogues, the look is commanding and stylish.
Both are examples of self-assured, confident design. Both, however, are very much illustrations of traditional menswear. An aspect of this collection that should be admired is the clear decision to lean into traditionally feminine draping and fabric types. This refined top constructed from sheer lace on the arms and paired with sleek cream satin, draped in a deep cowl-neck is a tasteful example of an original idea that introduces a softness to a collection otherwise filled with sharp lines and occasionally harsh colours.
Likewise, the simple yet elegant choice to pair high-wasted, peach satin trousers with a sleeveless black turtleneck creates a silhouette not often seen in menswear on the high street. Rather, there is a polished tailoring that is clearly Cassin’s forte as a designer. The synergy between the delicate peach silk and the austere black creates a playful dynamic between the masculine and feminine. Something that occurs across many of the designer's latest London Fashion Week designs. The result is a series of looks that are elegantly powerful, subverting the traditional boundaries of menswear and pushing forward innovative items onto the market.
Sadly, this attempt at pushing the boundaries of traditional gendered design does not always meet the mark. There are a few looks that were presented where the triumph of masterful design falls off in favour of confusing, and at times unwearable, looks.
Whilst the cream top mentioned earlier demonstrated drapery that was artful and flattering, here, with this forest green top of a similar design (bar lace sleeves) the look is disordered and muddled. Perhaps, partly due to fabric choice. Rather than the structured satin of the cream top that has a complex weave pattern making it very useful for drapery, Cassin chose a more flexible stretch polyester-like fabric. Cheapening the look, and presenting an almost sport-wear like design. The elegance of the draping which is so appealing, is completely lost. Likewise, when paired with ill-fitting, wrinkled, beige trousers, as it was on the catwalk, all of the care and consideration that comes across in other looks is lost.
There is also an attempt to ‘aestheticise’ workwear. A trend that has seen a resurgence in recent years - think of the re-emergence of famous workmen’s brand Dickies into popular culture, as well as the ever-present success of a dungaree. This is a trend we should not be opposed to, but it does need to be handled with care and intention. Something Cassin fails to do. An asymmetric boiler suit, that could be called olive green but might as well be beige, is potentially my least favourite look of the collection. The design and zipper placements are simply unflattering, the choice of colour is uninspiring and tedious, and the attempt at an asymmetric, constructed chest piece is confusing. Whilst maybe intended to distract the viewer from the monotony that is this piece of clothing, all the asymmetry does is highlight the failures of the design process that led to this suit being included in the collection.
The plethora of sheer shirts, likewise, simply feels overdone. Countless brands have produced similar shirts, of similar designs, and achieved similar outcomes. Alessandro Michele for instance designed, under Gucci, a sheer shirt for Harry Styles at the 2019 MET Gala.
Justin Cassin’s designs, bar those I have previously mentioned, also felt quite restrictive in terms of wearability. The sheerness of many limits the client base willing to purchase the designs and excludes a large part of the market. It is, of course, the designer's prerogative to only design for a certain type of client, however, when the brands ethos is stated to be, ‘creating an inclusive and diverse community’, it would not be remiss to expect more from each design.
With some refining, this collection could have been one of elegant innovation. There were some lovely looks that were tailored towards today's markets and presented in a way that was stylish and sophisticated. Others were less so and unfortunately felt lazy and haphazard. Those looks did fail to please in this instance but should be praised for Cassin’s willingness to strive to create contemporary pieces of design. Over time I’m sure this designer will evolve to a place in which his work is streamlined and cohesive. I look forward to seeing it.
Written by Daisy Packwood
Edited by Holly Anderson
Comments