PFW AW25 - SCHIAPARELLI - Icarus: Designs That Harness The Sun

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The traditional moral of the Greek myth Icarus is to refrain from excessive ambition and hubris. Designer, Daniel Roseberry, however, disagrees. In the latest Schiaparelli haute couture collection, Icarus, there was a definitive “search for perfection”, to use Roseberry’s own words. The collection explored the myth of Icarus and the notion of modernity which, for Roseberry, was found by drawing on styles from the past century. He took various elements from 1920s Art Deco, 1950s A-line skirts, to 1930s embellishments, and used them to redefine the idea of modernity. His designs, an ode to Elsa Schiaparelli’s famed corset style, also expanded on her creative inspiration from the surrealist movement. Concepts that all expertly highlighted the tension between reality and fantasy. The collection imbued the fragility of Icarus’ wings, reflected in the delicate materials like silk and taffeta, while also capturing his ambition and hamartia through the darker elements of the design. Thematic elements that were visually expressed through intricate silhouettes, contrasting textures, and bold colour choices that evoke both the lightness of flight and the weight of inevitable fall. 

A design that embodies the delicate and structural nature of Icarus’ wings, is a beige tulle skirt with a tailored open bodice in a piercing black. The juxtaposition between the rigid construction of the bodice with the flow of the tulle highlights the fragility of Icarus' wings under the mounting pressures of the sun. Roseberry achieves a visceral visual representation that aims to compete with the heights of grandeur that mythological narratives represent. The tulle layered over a cream silk bias-cut skirt adds a structural element to the flowing fabric, creating the impression of wings. When paired alongside the model’s light, glowy makeup, the look presented is one that conveys the glory of the embrace of gentle sunlight. Rather than fearing what brought Icarus to his untimely demise, the collection harnesses the power within the narrative. Channelling such power into a series of designs that aim for - and arguably achieve - perfection. Roseberry need not fear the sun, for he has mastered it. 

A synergy presented with harmonised simplicity in the following look, a piece that was inspired by Elsa Schiaparelli’s corsets. Intricate boning emphasises sculpted hips to create an exaggerated hourglass figure. The stark contrast between the nude elegant structure of the corseted bodice with the ruched grey satin embellishing the bust and train blends simplicity and excess. The result is a gown that embodies a meticulously crafted silhouette and speaks to Roseberry’s philosophy that designs are wearable sculptures and that fashion is more than merely a fabric. It highlights a story that permeates within the collection; the idea of ambition and aspiration within the fashion industry and the constant strive for redefinition. 

Redefinition that perhaps culminated in a lustrous metallic grey mermaid gown. The fabric was masterfully draped into a dramatic, voluminous bow at the back, and the folds seamlessly unfurled into a sweeping, flared train. The interplay of materials in this design from the mesh cinched bodice to the extravagant pleated skirt illustrates the concept of modernity within a baroque frame that Roseberry integrates throughout the collection. This design draws inspiration from baroque modernity, showcasing how fashion can be reworked to reimagine the concept of ‘current’. Here, elegance was prioritised, highlighting how great design transcends decades and sculpts eras. 

A 1930s inspired feathered coat further  explores the essence of haute couture and the extravagant aesthetic. Echoing the framed wings of Icarus, the piece unfolds a vision of shimmering feathers, ablaze in the embrace of sunlight. The coat was removed to reveal underneath a grey feathered strapless bustier and a beige satin bias-cut column skirt. As detailed in Dazed, Roseberry employed the technique of bathing feathers in glycerin to achieve a most illustrious aesthetic, enhancing their shine and capturing the shimmer of the sun’s rays. The 1930s saw a rise in the use of feathers to denote drama as well as eroticism with the expansion of burlesque and cabaret into the mainstream. Moreover, feathers have an aspect of old Hollywood glamour which connotes elegance and luxury. Weaving feathers into fashion, from the bold sensuality of burlesque and cabaret to the timeless elegance of old Hollywood glamour, accentuates their enduring symbol of both drama and luxury and thus furthering the motif of modernity. 

Schiaparelli’s collection Icarus embodies the fragility and endurance that comes with ambition. The designs, expertly crafted to look as though they are sculptures, and how the colours bridged a gap between past and present. Roseberry embraced the creations of the past with details from the 1920s, 1930s and 1950s. Schiaparelli continues to strive towards perfection and reinvention thus bringing forth the concept that the title of the collection Icarus shows a striking resemblance to Roseberry and his effort to constantly define the fashion industry.

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Written by Claudia Limaverde Costa

Edited by Daisy Packwood, Fashion Editor