‘The 1001 Seasons of Elie Saab’ a Celebration of 45 Years of Elie Saab
Elie Saab is a renowned luxury fashion designer from Lebanon. His brand, founded in the 1980s, quickly developed a signature style. Their evening gowns are expertly crafted with intricate embroidery, beading and opulent fabrics. Using soft edges and illustrious details, Saab continuously challenges the world of design with his central notion of romanticism and hyper-feminine allure.
Now, 45 years on, the brand has recently celebrated its lasting legacy with ‘The 1001 Seasons of Elie Saab’ fashion show. Succeeding in delivering a presentation that combined haute couture, flattering feminine designs, and star power. Co-hosted by Sabb himself, renowned stylist, Carine Roitfeld, worked on the event, alongside choreographer, Blanca Li. During the show Saab debuted 300 new designs on 90 models, including the likes of Adriana Lima, Eva Herzigova, Helena Christensen and many more. The performance was divided into four different sections, each outlining Saab’s artful attention to detail and his progress as a designer. Each collection conveys a central theme. His childhood dreams, for example, are the focus of the first segment. Nature is also continuously brought in as a storytelling tool. The mediterranean sea acts as inspiration for the third collection, and the sun for the final collection. A finale that acts as a projection of Saab’s hopes for the future of his fashion house. Pre-show the designer said the display “marked a pivotal moment laden with hope”. He went on to emphasise the profound impact of his cultural heritage and the generations that preceded him who revolutionised the fashion industry, and how he has “the privilege of reinvigorating and evolving” the future of fashion. Drawing on a legacy of traditions that don’t just come from the fashion world. Saab’s own Lebanese heritage has clearly also deeply influenced him and he draws on the essence of Arab culture in order to innovate the fashion world.
Heritage that extends to the clothes themselves. Halle Berry graced the stage in her notable look from the 2002 Oscar’s, where she made history as the first African-American woman to win the Academy Award for Best Actress. Pictured to the right, the dress has a mesh sleeveless bodice adorned with cascading florals and leaves. The skirt, made from a beautiful burgundy silk, ruches around the hip creating beautiful movement. This simple act of re-wearing the dress challenges long established customs within the fashion industry. The ‘horror’ of outfit repeating is transformed by Saab into a powerful commentary on the fast paced turn-over of trends, as well as on the craftsmanship of his gowns. A nouveau idea that is not only in line with environmental concerns of excess in the fashion industry, but also leans into the idea of restyling and longevity of truly expert design. The appearance was a standout from the show as this was the first time Saab dressed a celebrity for a prestigious event. This look became a stepping stone in Saab’s career. He was subsequently invited to become a member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture and debuted his first haute couture line in Paris.
Another global superstar who is inextricably connected to the brand is Jennifer Lopez. The singer descended from the rafters on a cloud of feathers to open a collection inspired by different eras of the brand in a segment entitled, ‘When Dreams Come True’. Lopez performed a medley of her iconic songs. As well as her iconic lifts and dance breaks, incorporated into her performance were multiple outfit changes. A tassel cape, bedazzled bodysuit, and feathered coat demonstrated the duality of Saab’s designs. His work is expansive, he is able to navigate the complicated performance design space, as well elevated evening wear looks. The looks in this performance embodied drama, flair and nostalgia. Elements that are quintessential to the Elie Saab brand.
‘An Ode To The Female Figure’, the second segment of the show, celebrated overt femininity, as the voice over details, "A woman’s silhouette should be celebrated in a gown that shapes her movement with grace. Then, a balance of power, femininity and fire unfolds, her essence revealed". The stage was adorned with flowers which beautifully ties in with the collection, evocative of enchanted gardens and ethereal beings. An extravagant bridal gown that took inspiration from the intricacies of flowers took the audience’s breath away, using petals to create a beautifully layered look. A look that culminated in the train of the dress. Constructed from the same petal details, the train, combined by the designer with a light pink veil, offers a variety of pink hues that add depth to the design. Whilst this could have been an ode to the pretty, yet repetitive, floral patterns so often seen in spring collections, Saab’s key design choice to add intentional green elements brought the collection into an ‘otherworldly’ realm. This outfit evokes the imagery of moss delicately clinging to surfaces. The skintight bodysuit masterfully embodies this concept, transforming the model into a living statue adorned with a graceful layer of moss and lush greenery.
When coupled with the following collection, ‘A Deep Dive Into A World Of Details’, a narrative of the intricate wonders of the natural world, especially the ocean, serve as a profound reflection of Saab's Lebanese heritage and the timeless allure of the Mediterranean. This connection is exquisitely expressed through a palette of "liquid blue, emerald sapphires, and gold flow”, is woven through the art of deliberate design. Filled with shades of blue and white, the titular look was a stunning light cyan tassel dress, adorned with sparkles and an extravagant crystal headpiece, the design mimicked droplets of water, the gown, though simple in design, elegantly captured the essence of water's beauty, evoking the exquisite sensation inspired by delicate droplets.
A design narrative that culminated in the finale entitled ‘1001 Sunrises’. A collection that endeavoured to convey the notion of the sun rising at dawn with new hope and promise. Saab details that, “In the sun, beauty emerges - timeless and constant, like the grace of an elegant gown.” With this idea in mind, the opening look resembled a glorious sunrise with variously sized sequins calculatedly placed to mimic the sun rays.The mesh overlay fabric, when coupled with an elegant headpiece, created an effect reminiscent of clouds softly diffusing the light of a sunrise, projecting rays out towards the raptured audience
This show - filled with colour, vibrance and energy - echoed the longstanding history of the brand as a forerunner in elegant, evening gown design. Clearly, Saab promises to continue to challenge and shape the fashion world, solidifying the brand’s foundations in Arab culture and surpassing previous collections. The designer’s embellishments and attention to detail offer a true masterclass in design. His ability to create 300 different yet perfectly succinct designs show the true capabilities of Saab as a designer. This spectacle exuded unparalleled drama, captivating aura, and exceptional flair, which established itself as a truly unforgettable masterpiece.
Written by Claudia Limaverde Costa
Edited by Daisy Packwood, Fashion Editor
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