The Dawn of Mankind, Reunification, and Modern Innovation - Yaku at LFW S/S 2025
Founded in 2023 by Central Saint-Martins graduate Yaku Stapleton, ‘Yaku’ aims to explore the ‘perception and sculptural’ form of clothes through the lens of Afro-Futurism and fantasy. At the heart of the brand’s ethos lies the exploration of nostalgia and the revisiting of ‘childlike wonder’. All these materialise in ‘The ImPossible Family Reunion in RPG Space’ which reimagines his family as video game characters navigating a ‘limitless realm’ in a ‘fantasy’ world.
In their SS25 collection, Yaku premiers the fourth instalment of the series. Their first womenswear collection, aptly titled ‘Looking Back to Look Forward to Look Back Again’, reimagines the designer’s family in different scenes meant to immerse us into the journeys of self-exploration and actualisation, through characters trying to reconcile the deep scars of their past. Opting for an immersive experience as opposed to a traditional fashion show, the presentation blurred the lines between fashion and theatrical performance. The characters, played by actors instead of models maintain a deliberate separation from the audience, almost as if we are voyeurs intruding on intimate family moments. Through the clothes and the meticulously crafted scenes, ‘Yaku’ evokes emotional responses from his viewers. Drawing on narratives that feel both deeply personal and universally familiar.
In a scene titled Reflection, pictured to the left, two characters representing 'The Father' in his past and in his present. Each figure mirrors the others movements through a glass pane. Although unaware of each other, the audience witnesses their synchronised actions. A metaphor of the reconciliation of the past with the future.
In another scene titled The Forest, pictured to the right, the audience is transported into a primordial landscape set against a lush green forest. The vibrant hues and the verdant greens of the setting seamlessly blend in with the clothes. The scene itself is meant to replicate a family nourishing themselves before embarking on the trials of the future. The clothes are at once strikingly futuristic yet subtly familiar. The silhouettes blend the recognisable with the unexpected. A camo jacket fractured by an asymmetric zip, or a dress, embellished and enhanced with ruched detailing. Here Yaku elevates conventional streetwear through innovative layering and the integration of show-stopping accessories, transforming familiar garments into striking pieces of couture. Standout pieces include the Scapula Gauntlet, which wraps around the arm like armour, whilst the Anklyosaur AM90’s surreal otherworldly designs still remain grounded in functionality.
Every scene and element of the show serves as a powerful testament to the brand’s unwavering commitment to sustainability and its portrayal of the cyclicality of life. The sets, crafted in-house from recycled garments and dead-stock fabric mirror the textiles and textures of the clothing, helping to create a seamless experience. After the collection’s debut, these materials will later be repurposed into new garments.
To describe the collection is to imagine the dawn of mankind, infused with modern innovation. By creating a world and creating clothes that blur temporality, Yaku solidifies Stapelton’s position as a designer unafraid to push creative boundaries.
Written by Arielle Sam-Alao
Edited by Daisy Packwood, Fashion Editor
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