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The Rich Man’s Stew: Fesenjan at Seymour Kitchen

Matthew Pellow
Photo by Matthew Pellow.
Photo by Matthew Pellow.

As the evenings grow colder and darker, there is one indulgence in particular that I begin to crave: fesenjan. The Persian ‘rich man’s dish’ traces its origin back to the Sassanid dynasty’s golden era in the fourth century CE. However, the earliest written reference to fesenjan can be found in a cookbook by the Qajar dynasty’s royal chef, written in 1881. Combining sweet and sour flavours with a luxuriant nutty creaminess, fesenjan is the perfect extravagance.


The dish, which hails from Gilan in Northern Iran - a province known for its abundant pomegranates and walnuts - draws its robust flavors from fried onions, ground walnuts, pomegranate molasses and, of course, the indispensable saffron, a hallmark of Persian cuisine.


While its ingredients are expensive, fesenjan is surprisingly simple to prepare. Slowly stewed together with chicken or if you’re feeling really indulgent, duck, the dish relies on high-quality ingredients and a long stewing time.


Fesenjan is reserved in Persian tradition for festive occasions, holding a lot of cultural significance to Iranians, as reflected in the common idiom for someone overly self-important, “he behaves as if has had partridge and fesenjan”. However, thanks to the gluttony of consumerism, Londoners can enjoy a comforting bowl of chicken fesenjan served alongside saffron rice on any night of the week at one of London's many Persian restaurants, Seymour Kitchen.


Welcoming and warm on a chilly winter’s evening, Seymour Kitchen seamlessly blends a cosy London dining experience with subtle nods to Iranian culture, showcased in its beautiful decoration and classic and modern Iranian pop music.


The warm hospitality provided by the hosts at Seymour Kitchen is backed up by the delicious food. The fesenjan is tangy, sweet and rich - everything you’d hope for in a well-executed rendition of this classic dish. The creamy richness of the walnuts enhances the savoury depth of the chicken, which is deliciously tender. Served alongside is Seymour Kitchen's perfectly fluffy rice, mildly flavoured with saffron.


The perfect conclusion to your feast, I would recommend trying a traditional Iranian cardamom tea, an authentic blend of black tea with cardamom.


As the dark, frigid evenings of winter in London settle in, there’s something inherently hedonistic about indulging in a dish like fesenjan - a symphony of sweet, tangy, and nutty flavours that feels at once luxurious and deeply comforting. At Seymour Kitchen, this Persian classic is not just a meal but an experience, steeped in cultural heritage and crafted with care.

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