Waiting for the Next Showstopper
Showstoppers are becoming a main course on the runway menu. As seen at (di)vision’s fall 2023 collection “Dressed for Disaster” which put a spin on the ‘How to pull a tablecloth from under a dinner service’ gimmick, the model wore an ensemble that extended as the tablecloth which she ultimately dragged with her. However, these attention-grabbing pieces tend to have one common denominator: STEM. Whether it be technology or chemistry, designers are incorporating the ever-evolving scientific and digital world into their roster.
Lighting up the industry
One of the founding viral moments in social media was Zendaya’s magical Cinderella transformation on the steps of the Met (Gala) in 2019. The gown, created by Tommy Hilfiger, lit up and expanded, transforming from grey to the dazzling blue we know Cinderella’s gown to be. The team behind Zendaya’s look found inspiration in Hussein Chalayan’s Spring 2007 ready-to-wear collection for the mechanics, where the garments would move on their own accord whilst the model played the part of a mannequin standing suspended on the runway. Harish Persad, the lighting designer on the project, stressed the innovative approaches required to make this glowing princess gown stand out in a lit space such as the Met Gala carpet. To solve the issue of visibility, they chose LED tape placing it along the seams to let the light shine through following this up with layers of organza and tulle to maintain the flow of light whilst covering the source. Here was an example of STEM rooting itself in the fashion industry, where technology and fashion aligned to create a showstopper cementing Zendaya as a red-carpet exemplar.
Playing with lighting in fashion is something designer Clara Daguin has really grabbed onto. She integrates light in her creative process: recently seen in her collaboration with Baccarat creating, amongst other notable lit pieces, a chandelier dress using small LED lights. With more than 400 pendants featuring LED lights painstakingly embroidered one by one, Daguin captures the essence of a crystal chandelier with her approach, making her work a prime example of the successful integration of STEM in fashion.
Creative chemistry
It can be described as a fine line which the designer must walk to strike a balance between the magic of a showstopper whilst staying true to a brand’s identity. This is something Satoshi Kondo got just right in his first collection as Design Director with Issey Miyake. In the Spring Summer 2020 show, some models were dressed in floating transparent hula-hoops carrying dresses and hats being lowered by pulley mechanisms whilst others were riding electrified skateboards. Kondo encapsulated the very essence of the brand Issey Miyake with the technology-driven presentation accompanied by designs that exhibited movement in a way that is true to the brand’s DNA. The strong presence of play and performance made for a viral moment on social media sealing Kondo’s debut.
Delving into science as a tool for innovation in fashion, Loewe’s Spring Summer 2023 menswear show is exhibit A. Creative director Jonathan Anderson collaborated with eco-designer Paula Ulargui Escalona to create a living collection - quite literally. From 84 accessories and garments grew plants, highlighting the sprouting of merging different arenas to grow something new. Escalona emphasised the need for natural and chemically bare materials, to maintain a healthy climate for the plants to thrive, wherein specially selected plants were weaved, thereby securing growth onwards. This collection does not only emphasise the wow-effect of STEM combined with couture to keep the design perspective ever-changing but also how fashion as an industry can benefit from the fusion of different professions to create more sustainable and eye-catching designs.
Capturing the moment
As much as the heightened use of technology and science in fashion can be an expression of artistry, a sign of progress or of sustainability (in some cases), it is often just as much a marketing strategy. These attempts to create showstopping moments using elaborate techniques are most certainly a way to engage younger generations, especially Gen Z. Considering large media consumption and the inclination towards short-form videos which, according to Forbes “are 2.5 times more engaging than longer videos”, social media strategy is vital as brands attempt to cater to newer audiences. By creating moments that are both exciting and unexpected, you are more likely to hold the audience’s attention for just a moment longer, providing a base where interest is ignited, which may lead to a fascination with the brand and its products. This season, LFW saw no notable show-stopping moments, which in turn is reflected in the Earned Media Value for SS25 generating $20.5M according to Karla Otto. This number fades in comparison to the previously mentioned SS23 showcasing in Paris. The city played host to several viral moments on the runway in a season resulting in a generated EMV of $284M as noted by Karla Otto and Lefty. The capital increase due to media exposure illustrates the impact of online engagement for show-stopping moments in making a house’s season.
One of the most talked about moments of 2022 must be mentioned here; Coperni’s show-stopping final look at its Spring Summer 2023 show in Paris. The use of technology to evolve techniques and concepts moves boundaries. It can disrupt any industry today including the fashion industry and must keep up with our ever-evolving technologically wired society. This is something Coperni creators Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant caught onto by introducing Fabrican at their show. The concept could be viewed as a nod to the Spring 1999 Alexander McQueen show where Shalom Harlow’s dress was spray-painted by robots, however, the technique and product used by Coperni made its runway debut, making for a real showstopper on the runway, according to Fabrican making “$20.9 million on social media in the 48 hours after the show”, and thoroughly showcasing the value of creating a moment infused with technology.
The alliance between fashion and science when driving positive innovation is indeed a strong one, that promises a future with mindful couture and stimulating creativity, but with obstacles, nonetheless. With social media advancing, creative leaders carry an increasing responsibility to manage audiences’ demands and create striking pieces that sustain the life of couture. However, if the flourishing of viral moments leads to an overflow, will it create an insupportable tendency in the fashion world, where showstoppers are no longer enough to satisfy the audiences? Only designers and time will tell, as the 2024 fashion scene has yet to deliver.
Written by Emma Todbjerg
Edited by Holly Anderson
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